What’s that white stuff?

The obnoxious droning of the neighbor’s pressure washer has got me thinking about stains (and ear plugs). With masonry the most common stains are white. Perhaps you have looked at your chimney and wondered “What is that white junk and how do I get rid of it?”

The white stuff is called “efflorescence” and is salt residue.  This salt is left behind when water moves through the brick and mortar and evaporates on the surface. This is common on new work because mortar is mixed with water and as it cures it heats up and forces water (and salt) out of the wall. When efflorescence occurs on an older wall it is a sign that water is getting into the masonry somehow.

In the case of efflorescence on fresh brick and mortar, we remove it with an acid wash. Efflorescence on existing structures is removed in the same way, but it is important to find out where water is entering the structure, to keep the white stuff from coming back.  Masonry sealers can also be used on the brick, mortar, and concrete to deeply penetrate the material to prevent salts from reaching the surface.

Masonry Management: Repairing Brick and Stonework

Any masonry on a property makes a bold statement, but if your brickwork is busted or your stonework is strained, it might not be the type of statement you want to show off. The good thing about brick and stonework is that it takes a long time or a lot of duress to make it irreparable. Chances are good that if your masonry is in disrepair, there is a way to fix it.

Cleaning Stone and Brickwork
Old masonry is often covered in years of dirt and other debris, which can hide its true beauty. Therefore, the obvious first step in restoring stonework is to clean it. This task sounds easy enough, but it can get tricky, especially when dealing with old and crumbling mortar.

Unless the stonework or brickwork is relatively new, attempting to clean it properly will be a lot like banging your head against (you guessed it) a brick wall. The type of grime that sticks to masonry can be very difficult to remove, and the pros use different cleaning techniques (some as powerful as grinding and sandblasting) to deal with different situations. Those without experience in the area, or the proper machinery, should probably consult someone who does.

Replacing Individual Bricks and Stones
When it comes to bricks, whether or not you can do this yourself depends on where the damaged piece is and the knowledge you have with mortar. If there is just one offending brick and it is not in a load bearing wall, you can take that brick out piece by piece as long as you don’t damage any of the surrounding bricks or the mortar that holds them in place. If there are more than 2 or 3 bricks in the same area that need to be replaced, or you are not sure if the wall is load bearing, call in a professional.

Stones are more difficult to replace, especially if they are not finished (uniformly cut). They are larger and heavier than bricks, and it is difficult to find a replacement stone that will fit properly without being cut (which most of us do not have the tools to do).

Masonry Mastery
Masonry is hard. While the concepts of how it is done might not be that difficult to grasp, to become good at it takes a lot of practice and a ton of time. The people that build and restore brick and stonework go through a lot of training; their knowledge and experience shows in their work, and can’t be duplicated by a casual DIY.

Brickwork and stonework are expensive to build and to repair, as well. When dealing with damaged masonry, the average person often finds himself or herself stuck between a rock and a hard place. Doing the work on their own might be possible, but the results are guaranteed to be less pleasing than what a pro could do. On the other hand, hiring a contractor is costly.

On the upside, a masonry repair, when done by a professional, can last a lifetime. In fact, it can last several lifetimes. These materials have been used for centuries, and there are many structures around that can attest to their durability and beauty. When you think of it as an investment that can be handed down for generations, a few extra bucks up front seems pretty reasonable.

Jon Nunan is a freelance writer who draws on his experience in construction, ranging from landscaping to log home building, for his articles on home improvement. Article from http://www.servicemagic.com

What is “Tuck-pointing”?

Tuck-pointing is the repair and replacement of mortar between brick or stone walls. Cracks, voids, crumbling mortar, or even areas of mortar from settling or foundation problems are common in masonry work from general exposure to the elements after 25-30 years. Intense freeze and thaw cycles or shoddy installations can sometimes cause these problems sooner. Large holes and washed out mortar are typical signs that tuck-pointing is needed.

The Finer Points of Tuck-Pointing
Joints, the visible area of mortar adjoined to the stone or brick, can be installed in any number of ways. The mortar can be flush with the mortar, angled in either direction, recessed, rounded, or in a V configuration. Each design has varying levels of effectiveness in repelling water and aesthetic appearance. Flat and angled joints are more popular with common brick. Rounded and recessed joints are more popular with face brick.

Mortar mix is another key component in proper tuck-pointing installation and also depends largely on the type and condition of the brick wall. Not all mortar mix is created equal and you can choose your mortar based on performance, appearance, and cost. Although the right material and technique are usually enough to deliver a water-tight job, it usually takes the skill of experienced professionals to use the proper mortar mix and tools to match existing mortar.

The U.S. Department of the Interior Office of Historic Preservation has established standards to preserve the appearance of older buildings and to avoid irreparable damage during repointing and in the future. Often modern hard cement mortar cannot be used in older buildings because applying modern mortar over old lime mortar can result in serious damage to the original building materials and may not last. It is important that new mortar match the original in porosity and compressive strength.

Tuck-Pointing Costs
The quantity, accessibility, and condition of existing joints can determine how much your tuck-pointing is going to cost, but a typical installation will run you around $7-10 per square foot under normal circumstances. You should have this project done somewhere between late spring and early fall to avoid any early freeze and thaw cycles that could harm the new mortar.

Decorative Tuck-Pointing
Even if your mortar and joints are in generally good condition, some homeowners want to improve the look of their brick with decorative tuck-pointing. Using a lime-based mortar you can frame your bricks with white lines that many people find pleasing. You should look at pictures of decorative tuck-pointing to see if this is something you’re interested in. Obviously, many homeowners wait until their old mortar needs to be replaced before investing in this otherwise cosmetic process.

Marcus Pickett is a professional freelance writer for the home remodeling industry. He has published more than 600 articles on both regional and national topics within the home improvement industry. Article from servicemagic.com

Repairing Masonry

Brick is one of the most common choices for basic masonry materials. It’s made of fired clay and it comes in hundreds of different colors. It can be one of the higher-priced exterior finishes, but many homeowners like it because it’s water repellant, easy to maintain, and less expensive in the long run. Brick masonry should last 100 years, with the first 25 years free of maintenance.

Stone is an ancient form of masonry. In theory, stone will last a lifetime. Stone exteriors work best when installed with old-fashioned techniques. Problems can occur when mixing stone masonry with new building techniques. For example, many homeowners want the look of stone without paying the cost to get a properly built stone exterior. They choose to go with stone veneer over a modern stud frame. This will likely fail over time.

Concrete block masonry is more common with industrial buildings. It should last 50 to 80 years, and you’ll need to fix the joints after 25 years. Unlike brick, concrete blocks are not waterproof. You’ll need to apply a water seal every 10 years. The best water seals are silane and siloxane. You can apply them by spray, and they soak into the surface of the wall like stain.

Water and Repairing Masonry
Water is masonry’s worst enemy because freeze-thaw cycles can cause cracks. Properly sealed stone masonry prevents problems. Discoloration is caused by water penetration or is an indication that water is entering but evaporating. Every year, check your building’s masonry exterior four hours after a heavy rainstorm. Any dark patches on the wall means that water soaked into the surface. This is a future problem that needs fixing. Leaching water is moisture that slowly finds its way through the masonry wall via cracks, holes and mortar joints, usually because of improper or deteriorating waterproofing.

Masonry Repair and Maintenance
The most common masonry repair is repointing. Repointing involves replacing damaged or deteriorated mortar between the brick, stone, or concrete. Often, home improvement repair projects entail some sort of upgrade over older materials. With repointing, though, it’s critical that you replace old mortar with equivalent strength, composition, and appearance. This will keep your masonry uniform and will keep the base materials from cracking. If you replace the old mortar with a stronger mixture, your masonry won’t be able to breathe with the natural freeze and thaw cycles.

You may also want to have your masonry cleaned periodically to maintain its new look. Be cautious, though, it’s easy to damage your masonry with improper cleaning methods. A low pressure water wash and a mild detergent is usually the way to go, but always test a small area first, before letting your entire masonry have it. Use the gentlest means possible, and if you’re at all uncertain it’s probably best to call a masonry repair contractor.

Other Common Problems in Repair Masonry

Bulges in concrete come from excessive pressure on the back side of a wall.

Concrete cracks happen because of horizontal or vertical stress to a masonry surface. (This is why rebar is used to strengthen concrete.)

Deteriorating mortar joints are generally due to age or water penetration.

Leaning walls are usually due to the lack of sufficient footing (additional concrete added to the bottom of a wall to strengthen it) or to more horizontal pressure at the top of the wall than the bottom.

Brick, stone, or blocks come apart from age and deterioration of mortar between masonry units.

Sinking or settling in masonry is due to improper compaction of soil beneath the masonry or improper drainage around masonry.

Marcus Pickett is a professional freelance writer for the home remodeling industry. He has published more than 600 articles on both regional and national topics within the home improvement industry. Article taken from servicemagic.com