Primp your patio

If you have a patio, sooner or later you are going to have a problem with weeds. I am not aware of any voluntary organizations to help you come to terms with this adversity, but I do have some helpful suggestions.

1)      Understanding… Regardless of how well built a patio may be, it has the potential to become a weed haven. Basically if there is somewhere for dirt to collect (think cracks), dirt will collect there and if dirt has collected there, then weeds will grow there. This is true for patios, parking lots, roofs, even cars.

2)      Acceptance… Maybe you can learn to love or live with the unplanned greenery growing in the cracks of your patio. In my yard, I have learned to appreciate buttercups for their frequent flowers, delicate leaves, and the way they grow where grass refuses to… BUT THE DANDELIONS MUST DIE. If you cannot appreciate the naturalized look you must accept that something needs to be done.

3)      Prevention… An ounce of it is worth a pound of cure. Keeping your patio clean is the best thing you can do. Avoid tracking dirt onto the pavement, or performing dirty tasks like repotting flowers directly on the surface (laying down a tarp first is fine). Remove dead leaves from your masonry masterpiece during the season they accumulate not some latter season, as leaves become dirt.  A pressure washer or leaf blower is your friend in this. Also eradicate weeds before they flower, to prevent their seeds from growing in your patio.

4)      Taking action…  To kill weeds already growing in your patio there are several options. You could pick up some herbicide like “Round-Up” and spray them if you are into chemicals. Or you could hand pull them, which is not a lot of fun. You could get a propane torch to cook the weeds, sadly this is not as fun as it sounds and there is a risk of getting black spots on your masonry. Bleach also kills plants, but you run the risk of discoloring your pavers.  A safer version is to use a spray bottle with undiluted vinegar (10% used for canning and pickling) to spray plants.  Another way to cook plants is to use boiling water which will kill not only growing weeds, but also any seeds in the area.  To keep weeds from returning you can treat cracks with pre-emergent herbicide such as “Casaron”. Less toxic methods include filling the cracks with rock salt or slacked lime [Ca(OH)2] which will create an unfavorable environ for any would be weeds.

Even though weeding is a chore, killing weeds can be a great way to unwind after a lousy day at the office or lousier commute home. Enjoy.

What’s that white stuff?

The obnoxious droning of the neighbor’s pressure washer has got me thinking about stains (and ear plugs). With masonry the most common stains are white. Perhaps you have looked at your chimney and wondered “What is that white junk and how do I get rid of it?”

The white stuff is called “efflorescence” and is salt residue.  This salt is left behind when water moves through the brick and mortar and evaporates on the surface. This is common on new work because mortar is mixed with water and as it cures it heats up and forces water (and salt) out of the wall. When efflorescence occurs on an older wall it is a sign that water is getting into the masonry somehow.

In the case of efflorescence on fresh brick and mortar, we remove it with an acid wash. Efflorescence on existing structures is removed in the same way, but it is important to find out where water is entering the structure, to keep the white stuff from coming back.  Masonry sealers can also be used on the brick, mortar, and concrete to deeply penetrate the material to prevent salts from reaching the surface.

Retaining wall Autopsy

What we have here is 20 year old landscape masonry which has failed.  Some walls are leaning where corners have broken.  In other places they bulge where the mortar joints cracked and the visible portion of the structure is slowly sliding away from the buried half. The footing appears to be in good shape as there is no sagging or signs of settling. Overall the mortar is in fairly good condition, the wall just wasn’t up to the job.

It is my opinion that water destroyed this wall. More specifically, trapped water due to poor drainage. Freezing can cause similar damage when water freezes and expands exerting additional force. I am fairly certain that this was not the case here as the plants in the planters would not have survived. Also water can be seen seeping out of the broken spots.

The importance of proper drainage in retaining wall construction cannot be overemphasized.  A retaining wall or in this case a raised planter is a container designed to resist a certain amount of force. For example a paper bag is a container designed to hold a load, but if you over fill it, the bottom falls out.  Luckily paper bags are cheap and easy, brickwork is slightly more involved.

Back to the Rain…

So ends a beautiful stretch of spring weather. Imagine feeling like it’s July in April. But now it is back to the rain, the weather Seattle is most renowned for. This weather often reminds me of masonry problems, as many are water based.

Now imagine a bathtub full of water and you open the drain (assuming the drain is clean) that is a lot of water going through a relatively small hole in short order. This example is difficult for me because I get hung up on the fact that water weighs eight pounds and some change per gallon, pressure, velocity losses of the pipe etcetera. It just doesn’t translate well into the way water enters a masonry structure. But the fact remains that you can get a lot of water through a small hole.

So how does water get in? (and what you can do about it)

1)      Down the chimney unless you have a cap installed. Seems like a no-brainer, but it is a commonly overlooked item. Take a look around Ballard, Madison Park, or Queen Anne and see how many chimneys have caps. My own chimney went forty years before it got capped. A puddle in your chimney can soak into porous mortar, transferring moisture into your house, and also greatly reduces the service life of your chimney.

2)      Through defective, improperly installed, or missing flashing. Although flashing (and associated problems) are not unique to masonry construction alone, it is nevertheless a very important part of a masonry structure. Flashing is especially critical around chimneys (roofs are very wet places), but is also important on lintels and copings, really anywhere there is a ledge for water to sit on there should be flashing to keep water out of your house. When water gets around flashing and enters the home, it can lead to mold and mildew problems and rotting wooden framing.

3)      Water can also enter through cracked or missing mortar and bricks. Remember that bathtub? A lot of water can get through a small hole and it doesn’t just rely on gravity to get there, strong winds can blow rain sideways. That is why tuck pointing (the process of removing and replacing old, failing mortar to weatherize a structure) is such an important maintenance step to keeping your home dry. Once water gets into masonry walls it absorbs into brick and mortar leading to more cracks holes and broken bricks… and more water coming in.

4)      Porous masonry materials act as a sponge drawing water into your home. Poured concrete is notorious for letting water in, especially in poorly homogenized areas where you can see a lot of rock and gravel. It is not unheard of for streams of water to run from such spots. Concrete Masonry Units (C.M.U.) or as I like to call them “concrete blocks” also absorb water. While mortar joints have the same problem it is not an issue if they are in good repair and properly struck. Mortar joints are struck (shaped) in a generally concave manner so they are not directly exposed to rain. Because concrete absorbs water it is important to waterproof it using sealers and other means.

Stay dry.

Brick Masonry

When it comes to masonry choices, the three most popular are slump stone, new brick and manufactured alternatives.

Bricks

Brick is made of fired clay and comes in hundreds of different colors. Considered by many to be the ultimate exterior wall finish, brick contain many advantages.

Readily available most everywhere with thousands of varieties to choose, brick is one of the most durable building materials. In fact, brick masonry should last 100 years, with the first 25 years completely maintenance-free.

Brick also won’t catch fire, rot or be eaten by termites.

It can be one of the higher-priced exterior finishes; however, many homeowners prefer brick because, due to its durability, it’s less expensive in the long run.

Stone

Stone is another attractive, durable and expensive choice. An antique form of masonry, stone will last a lifetime. Just check out all the Greek and Roman monuments still standing today!

Unfortunately, stone isn’t as available as brick, and not every stone works for masonry work. Some types of stone are too soft, and others are too porous. Stone exteriors also work best when installed with old-fashioned techniques.

Water is stone masonry’s worst enemy because freeze-thaw cycles can cause cracks. Properly sealed stone masonry prevents problems.

Every year, check your building’s masonry exterior four hours after a heavy rainstorm. Any dark patches on the wall means that water soaked into the surface. This is a future problem that will need fixing.

Manufactured Brick and Stone

There is a third alternative to brick and stone which contains all of the above advantages at a lower cost.

Many times what appears to be stone or brick on a house is actually a lightweight concrete-manufactured stone veneer or cultured stone.

A mixture of Portland cement, natural aggregates and iron oxide pigments is poured into molds made from real stones. The result, available in a broad palette of colors and styles, looks incredibly realistic.

Architectural blocks are another attractive, virtually indestructible option. These are essentially the same as conventional concrete blocks, except they resemble polished granite, look like hand-hewn stone or tile or have other decorative finishes.

Concrete block masonry is more common with industrial buildings. It should last 50 to 80 years, and you’ll need to fix the joints after 25 years.

Unlike brick, concrete blocks are not waterproof. You’ll need to apply a water seal every 10 years.

The best water seals are silane and siloxane. You can apply them by spray, and they soak into the surface of the wall like stain.

Article by Service Magic
Read more: http://www.servicemagic.com/article.show.Brick-Masonry.8822.html?oids=67c1#ixzz0lCkqQHmp

Masonry Management: Repairing Brick and Stonework

Any masonry on a property makes a bold statement, but if your brickwork is busted or your stonework is strained, it might not be the type of statement you want to show off. The good thing about brick and stonework is that it takes a long time or a lot of duress to make it irreparable. Chances are good that if your masonry is in disrepair, there is a way to fix it.

Cleaning Stone and Brickwork
Old masonry is often covered in years of dirt and other debris, which can hide its true beauty. Therefore, the obvious first step in restoring stonework is to clean it. This task sounds easy enough, but it can get tricky, especially when dealing with old and crumbling mortar.

Unless the stonework or brickwork is relatively new, attempting to clean it properly will be a lot like banging your head against (you guessed it) a brick wall. The type of grime that sticks to masonry can be very difficult to remove, and the pros use different cleaning techniques (some as powerful as grinding and sandblasting) to deal with different situations. Those without experience in the area, or the proper machinery, should probably consult someone who does.

Replacing Individual Bricks and Stones
When it comes to bricks, whether or not you can do this yourself depends on where the damaged piece is and the knowledge you have with mortar. If there is just one offending brick and it is not in a load bearing wall, you can take that brick out piece by piece as long as you don’t damage any of the surrounding bricks or the mortar that holds them in place. If there are more than 2 or 3 bricks in the same area that need to be replaced, or you are not sure if the wall is load bearing, call in a professional.

Stones are more difficult to replace, especially if they are not finished (uniformly cut). They are larger and heavier than bricks, and it is difficult to find a replacement stone that will fit properly without being cut (which most of us do not have the tools to do).

Masonry Mastery
Masonry is hard. While the concepts of how it is done might not be that difficult to grasp, to become good at it takes a lot of practice and a ton of time. The people that build and restore brick and stonework go through a lot of training; their knowledge and experience shows in their work, and can’t be duplicated by a casual DIY.

Brickwork and stonework are expensive to build and to repair, as well. When dealing with damaged masonry, the average person often finds himself or herself stuck between a rock and a hard place. Doing the work on their own might be possible, but the results are guaranteed to be less pleasing than what a pro could do. On the other hand, hiring a contractor is costly.

On the upside, a masonry repair, when done by a professional, can last a lifetime. In fact, it can last several lifetimes. These materials have been used for centuries, and there are many structures around that can attest to their durability and beauty. When you think of it as an investment that can be handed down for generations, a few extra bucks up front seems pretty reasonable.

Jon Nunan is a freelance writer who draws on his experience in construction, ranging from landscaping to log home building, for his articles on home improvement. Article from http://www.servicemagic.com

What is “Tuck-pointing”?

Tuck-pointing is the repair and replacement of mortar between brick or stone walls. Cracks, voids, crumbling mortar, or even areas of mortar from settling or foundation problems are common in masonry work from general exposure to the elements after 25-30 years. Intense freeze and thaw cycles or shoddy installations can sometimes cause these problems sooner. Large holes and washed out mortar are typical signs that tuck-pointing is needed.

The Finer Points of Tuck-Pointing
Joints, the visible area of mortar adjoined to the stone or brick, can be installed in any number of ways. The mortar can be flush with the mortar, angled in either direction, recessed, rounded, or in a V configuration. Each design has varying levels of effectiveness in repelling water and aesthetic appearance. Flat and angled joints are more popular with common brick. Rounded and recessed joints are more popular with face brick.

Mortar mix is another key component in proper tuck-pointing installation and also depends largely on the type and condition of the brick wall. Not all mortar mix is created equal and you can choose your mortar based on performance, appearance, and cost. Although the right material and technique are usually enough to deliver a water-tight job, it usually takes the skill of experienced professionals to use the proper mortar mix and tools to match existing mortar.

The U.S. Department of the Interior Office of Historic Preservation has established standards to preserve the appearance of older buildings and to avoid irreparable damage during repointing and in the future. Often modern hard cement mortar cannot be used in older buildings because applying modern mortar over old lime mortar can result in serious damage to the original building materials and may not last. It is important that new mortar match the original in porosity and compressive strength.

Tuck-Pointing Costs
The quantity, accessibility, and condition of existing joints can determine how much your tuck-pointing is going to cost, but a typical installation will run you around $7-10 per square foot under normal circumstances. You should have this project done somewhere between late spring and early fall to avoid any early freeze and thaw cycles that could harm the new mortar.

Decorative Tuck-Pointing
Even if your mortar and joints are in generally good condition, some homeowners want to improve the look of their brick with decorative tuck-pointing. Using a lime-based mortar you can frame your bricks with white lines that many people find pleasing. You should look at pictures of decorative tuck-pointing to see if this is something you’re interested in. Obviously, many homeowners wait until their old mortar needs to be replaced before investing in this otherwise cosmetic process.

Marcus Pickett is a professional freelance writer for the home remodeling industry. He has published more than 600 articles on both regional and national topics within the home improvement industry. Article from servicemagic.com

Red Brick ~ Green Brick

Back in may of 2001 I recall reading an article in The Wallstreet Journal about the texting phenomenon sweeping the U.K. and in particular a dictionary of texting phrases. Who would have thought such a ridiculous concept would ever catch on here in the good old US of A… but now it permeates our existence.

A few years back I heard tales from the U.K. of cocktail parties where concepts like carbon footprints and carbon offsets were the overwhelming topics of discussion. Now we are swept up in the far less asinine Green Revolution. Even the Pemco building in downtown Seattle announces to all southbound commuters: the time, temperature, and their carbon output.

Now that we have regained our interest in protecting the planet it is time to take stock in our impact. As Seattle’s masonry restoration expert, that means brick. So where does brick come from? The short answer is the brick store, but there is more to the story than that…

In the beginning there was clay, which had to be dug from the earth, I doubt shovels featured prominently, so there’s emissions from the earthmoving equipment. It is unlikely that the manufacturing plant is adjacent to the clay so let’s load it onto trucks and haul it there, so there is more emissions for you, as nobody uses horse drawn wagons for this sort of thing anymore.

Once the clay reaches the factory it must be processed to remove organic material and rock. Then mixed to the appropriate consistency and molded into the appropriate shapes. Lastly the bricks must be kiln fired. All of these processes are going to require energy, seeing as wind farms and solar power plants are just starting to take off, let’s assume it is from some less eco-friendly source.

The finished product is then likely trucked to major distribution yards throughout the country (more emissions). From there it would be trucked to the brick suppliers (more emissions), and finally to the jobsite (more emissions). Also consider that all hands touching and sustaining this process had to get to work somehow (even more emissions).

Now before you go throwing yourself off the Aurora Bridge there is an upshot to all this pollution.  A properly built and maintained brick building is fairly eternal. Masons who specialize in restoration make sure brick structures stand the test of time and are preserved for future generations to enjoy. We are in the conservation business not the pollution business… That is how we sleep at night. Let’s look at a couple ways a project could play out… Replacement V.S. Restoration.

Many bricklayers would suggest replacing a failing wall or chimney, wasting your money, natural resources, and causing additional pollution. Energy must be expended to demolish the structure and load it onto a truck for off site disposal.  In many cases the brick is then recycled as gravel, which is a good thing, but requires more energy in handling, processing, and trucking. New brick must be brought to the job site and you know how much energy went into making the brick. Then your wall or chimney is rebuilt, however this takes a while and every day a project takes, masons have to get to the jobsite. If you add it up, that’s a big carbon footprint.

By contrast, the restoration method uses a lighter touch. Restoration specialists start by identifying the causes of the failure and addressing them. Then cut out and replace the individual broken bricks, remove and replace failing mortar by tuck pointing, and restore your building to it’s original splendor. In addition to conserving the energy embodied in your original brick, this method is also much quicker so our masonry specialists waste less energy commuting to the jobsite. So you see sometimes a red brick can be green.

Repairing Masonry

Brick is one of the most common choices for basic masonry materials. It’s made of fired clay and it comes in hundreds of different colors. It can be one of the higher-priced exterior finishes, but many homeowners like it because it’s water repellant, easy to maintain, and less expensive in the long run. Brick masonry should last 100 years, with the first 25 years free of maintenance.

Stone is an ancient form of masonry. In theory, stone will last a lifetime. Stone exteriors work best when installed with old-fashioned techniques. Problems can occur when mixing stone masonry with new building techniques. For example, many homeowners want the look of stone without paying the cost to get a properly built stone exterior. They choose to go with stone veneer over a modern stud frame. This will likely fail over time.

Concrete block masonry is more common with industrial buildings. It should last 50 to 80 years, and you’ll need to fix the joints after 25 years. Unlike brick, concrete blocks are not waterproof. You’ll need to apply a water seal every 10 years. The best water seals are silane and siloxane. You can apply them by spray, and they soak into the surface of the wall like stain.

Water and Repairing Masonry
Water is masonry’s worst enemy because freeze-thaw cycles can cause cracks. Properly sealed stone masonry prevents problems. Discoloration is caused by water penetration or is an indication that water is entering but evaporating. Every year, check your building’s masonry exterior four hours after a heavy rainstorm. Any dark patches on the wall means that water soaked into the surface. This is a future problem that needs fixing. Leaching water is moisture that slowly finds its way through the masonry wall via cracks, holes and mortar joints, usually because of improper or deteriorating waterproofing.

Masonry Repair and Maintenance
The most common masonry repair is repointing. Repointing involves replacing damaged or deteriorated mortar between the brick, stone, or concrete. Often, home improvement repair projects entail some sort of upgrade over older materials. With repointing, though, it’s critical that you replace old mortar with equivalent strength, composition, and appearance. This will keep your masonry uniform and will keep the base materials from cracking. If you replace the old mortar with a stronger mixture, your masonry won’t be able to breathe with the natural freeze and thaw cycles.

You may also want to have your masonry cleaned periodically to maintain its new look. Be cautious, though, it’s easy to damage your masonry with improper cleaning methods. A low pressure water wash and a mild detergent is usually the way to go, but always test a small area first, before letting your entire masonry have it. Use the gentlest means possible, and if you’re at all uncertain it’s probably best to call a masonry repair contractor.

Other Common Problems in Repair Masonry

Bulges in concrete come from excessive pressure on the back side of a wall.

Concrete cracks happen because of horizontal or vertical stress to a masonry surface. (This is why rebar is used to strengthen concrete.)

Deteriorating mortar joints are generally due to age or water penetration.

Leaning walls are usually due to the lack of sufficient footing (additional concrete added to the bottom of a wall to strengthen it) or to more horizontal pressure at the top of the wall than the bottom.

Brick, stone, or blocks come apart from age and deterioration of mortar between masonry units.

Sinking or settling in masonry is due to improper compaction of soil beneath the masonry or improper drainage around masonry.

Marcus Pickett is a professional freelance writer for the home remodeling industry. He has published more than 600 articles on both regional and national topics within the home improvement industry. Article taken from servicemagic.com

Water can be dangerous – treat the cause not the symptom or pay thousands of dollars!

Masonry walls can be very beautiful and last hundreds if not thousands of years if maintained correctly. This is exactly our problem, they are not maintained! We live in a state where rain is a norm. Water loves to find its way into things and often cause us problems. Nonetheless, water is not the problem, we are. For many of years I have blamed water as the cause of deterioration of many beautiful historical masonry buildings. Water causing flooded basements, dismounted bricks, collapsed walls and ceilings, efflorescence, and many other pricey issues to fix. Although water might have seemed to be the cause, it was actually just a symptom of a bigger cause: decline and neglect by the owner. So many cases I have seen where the owner noticed a problem but decided to dismiss it. If this is neglect due to lack of money, knowledge, or simply disregard for the life of the masonry structure; the problem will not fix itself unless something is done. Make it a habit to fix these issues before water becomes your issue. Trust me, once water becomes your problem it WILL cost thousands of dollars to fix! Waterproofing is the best method of extending the life of your masonry structure. Flashing, tuck pointing, water barriers- can all be applied to shed water. Take a look at your structure and see what is missing BEFORE problems occur. If your masonry wall has a few dislodged bricks or crumbling mortar, take care of these issues before water makes its way. Remember, structures that seem to be cover from the rain often are not. Wind driven rains have a tendency to find their way into places where it seems impossible. For older masonry structures that seem too old to fix, tuck pointing is probably your solution. Tuck pointing can make your masonry structure look like new construction. Renovation is also quicker and way cheaper than if you were to replace a masonry structure.

Things to look for when examining your masonry structure:

Missing joints or seams,

Crumbling bricks or mortar,

Dislodged or missing bricks,

Missing or incorrectly installed flashing,

Lifting or missing silicon or caulking,

Improperly installed gutters or downspouts,

Mold and mildew,

Constant wet spots,

Large amounts of efflorescence (white powdery substance on bricks),

High ground level (pulling moisture from soil),

Improper slope,

Damage of any sort to the masonry structure.

If you notice these or any other issues when examining your masonry structure it is best to fix them immediately. If you can not do it on your own, call a masonry specialist for an inspection and estimate. You can visit our website at brickmaster.biz and fill out our free inspection and estimate form and a specialist will contact you promptly to schedule a time to meet. Hope this information was helpful and remember: Water problems are only symptoms to your own neglect. Good luck.